Thinking about getting chinchilla, have questions!

[imnoangell99]

I am thinking about getting a chinchilla and am saving money to get one. I've read a ton about them to be properly educated but have a few questions:


1) I understand the importance of temperature. I live in Florida so it definitely gets hotter but my a/c unit is brand new as all the parts have been replaced for maximum efficiency. I am thinking if I get a chinchilla, I would put the cage at the foot of my bed which would be right under an a/c vent. I'm not bothered by noise since I'm a deep sleeper and I know a fan won't help, but will being under an a/c vent that blows air on and off effect the chinchilla at all? More helpful or possibly harmful?

2) I know its important to know of an exotic pet vet in case the chinchilla gets sick. Do chinchilla's require shots or regular check-ups like a dog might? If I keep the chinchilla healthy with the right diet, exercise, temperature, cleanliness, and fun, does the chinchilla need to go to the vet for check-ups?

3) I've seen that those who don't have play pens allow the chinchilla to run free in bathrooms a lot. Making sure they can't chew on anything or hurt themselves is important. What I am wondering is how much does the cleanliness of the bathroom matter? For instance, if I clean my tub and suds are washed away, will any chemicals possibly effect the chinchilla? I know they can't get wet and everything would have to be dry. At one point will the cleaning of surfaces not effect the chinchilla?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Smidgeyy]

1 - You don't want an AC or fan blowing directly on the chinchilla. That can make them sick. As long as the room temperature is low enough, you'll be fine.

2 - Chinchillas do not need regular check ups and should really only see a vet if you suspect an issue.

3 - This is something that I am not sure of. I would imagine that if you wash everything off really well, it should be fine.

 

[Godofgods]

you dont want anything blowing on them. Its a draft that can get them sick.
Chins generally dont need to be taken in to a vet unless you think something is wrong. There are no regular shots or anything like that.
#3 im not sure of. I dont let mine run in the bathroom. The reason many ppl do is because its the easiest room to chin proof. Chins also have fairly weak respiratory systems so things like air fresheners and sprays arnt a good idea around them. As for after effects of cleaning products in the bathroom, im not entirely sure. But chins can go without play time if they have a proper cage/wheel. So you can always wait a few days if you think its necessary.

 

[ticklechin]

I would worry more about the bacteria in the bathroom infecting the chinchilla more so than cleaning stuff, thats just me.

 

[Cuddlebug]

Ditto what Dawn said. If mtge bathroom has been cleaned and then wiped with a wet rag to remove any residues, the chin should be fine. Vet visits stress chins and can cause illness. What I tell my customers is to get an initial appointment to get established with a vet so that things are easier if you need to take the chin in. otherwise, only take them in if they are ill or injured. I can personally attest to the fact that drafts can make chins ill. I once rearranged my chin room and forgot to check for the location of the AC vent which was right above my Freddie's cage. Within a week he had stopped eating. I took him in and he had the beginning of pneumonia which is hard to clear up in a chin. I still kick myself because I knew better and allowed my boy to become ill.

 

[Vyxxin]

As the questions have already been answered fairly sufficiently, may I just say how refreshing it is having someone WITHOUT a chinchilla...coming on here and asking GOOD questions before getting a chinchilla?

Congratulations, I know you'll make a good owner. Stick around, ask any additional questions, and be receptive to the answers even if they seem blunt. People on here know chinchillas inside and out and only want you to be a great owner and your chinchilla to be a happy pet!

 

[imnoangell99]

As the questions have already been answered fairly sufficiently, may I just say how refreshing it is having someone WITHOUT a chinchilla...coming on here and asking GOOD questions before getting a chinchilla?

Congratulations, I know you'll make a good owner. Stick around, ask any additional questions, and be receptive to the answers even if they seem blunt. People on here know chinchillas inside and out and only want you to be a great owner and your chinchilla to be a happy pet!

Wow that's really sweet! Ya'll have been super helpful with the questions I have. I figure if you are going to buy an animal that is quite different and don't know much about it, the first thing to do is learn about it to see if you can even handle it.

 

[imnoangell99]

Based on the responses above, I think I would just let the chinchilla run around my bedroom then. My furniture is either wood or metal and the most she could do is go under the bed but sounds like treats would help with that.

One other question through: I've read different things, but do they poop everywhere and/or throw poop outside of their cage? I have noticed some people report that their chinchilla is a bit potty trained with going in the same place or they have a box on the bottom level where they go. I did see something at a pet store for that sort of thing (it was plastic and for a rabbit maybe) but was wondering about the general idea. Thanks!

 

[Airyn]

If you're going to let him roam in the bedroom, just keep in mind that they really do chew everything. I let my oldest chin free roam in my room before I found this forum. I had a bookshelf in the room and every book on the bottom two shelves wound up with pieces missing. My headboard was made of wood and he chewed that. They nibble baseboards, so putting up cardboard or fleece would both be good solutions. They'll chew wooden closet doors, window sills, wires, the wooden frame of your box spring, the little plastic pieces on shoelaces, jewelry, buttons, zippers, etc. If it fits in their mouth, it will be taste tested. He used to love going under the bed, but then he didn't like to come out. Tight quarters make them feel secure, and they'll find tiny little spaces that you didn't even know existed. It becomes a game to outsmart your chin, which is equally fun and frustrating, especially if you have somewhere to be and hoped that playtime would be over an hour ago.

A pooping chin is a healthy chin, and they do poop everywhere. The advantage is that their poop is practically dry before it hits the ground, so you can vacuum it right up. Some chins take well to potty training, while some do not. Even so, they'll only urinate in there and poop will still be everywhere. If you choose to go that route, it's best to use a Pyrex baking dish since they can't chew through glass. They CAN chew through all types of plastic though, so be sure to avoid pretty much every accessory you see at a pet store. Unfortunately, the more you read on here, the more you'll realize how little pet stores actually have to offer in the way of chin supplies. I'll buy Oxbow Hay and feed from a pet store if I run out, but I order everything else from members on here. When you're ready, check out the Grand Master Chin Supplier List. It's helpful.

Sorry if that's a bit of information overload, but as Vyxxin said, kudos on asking first and buying second!

 

[Amethyst]

Keep in mind that unless the furniture is untreated chin safe wood then it's going to most likely have poisonous stuff on it (paint, sealant, chemical treating, etc), so that can be a problem if the chin chews and swallows any of it.
I don't advise allowing the chin anywhere that you can't easily grab it, if it gets hurt or scared it's going to hide and trying to get an injured or scared chin out from under a bed is going to stress it out even more. Block off anywhere that it can get under anything, one thing I found useful is those critter playpens like these http://petus.imageg.net/PETNA_36/pimg/pPETNA-5200168_main_enh.jpg, you can block off areas and they are made of metal so no way to chew through it. A lot of people also buy playpens for their chins too, the ones made for ferrets work well, and most allow you to connect pens together to make a big pen. Some people also get those cloth dog pens that have a zipper lid, but they can chew out of them. A cheaper solution is using cardboard or even those tri fold project boards to make your own pen or use for blocking areas. Another thing to keep in mind though is chins can jump 4-5 feet, so when using a playpen you still need to keep constant eye on the chin.

As said chins can be potty trained, but just to pee, and not all take to it, and in some cases will decide they no longer feel like being pee trained (commonly a personality issue not a medical issue, like a cat not using it's box is). The way their gut works they need to poop every minute or so, so they can't hold it, there gut has to be always moving, which means the chin always has to poop (they go less when sleeping though). Pyrex dishes or metal pans work well, there are pros and cons for each, personally the idea of a glass dish scares me since they like to throw toys and if a toy hit the dish just right it could break. As said plastic is a big no no for chinchillas, they will chew it, and if swallowed can cause a blockage which requires surgery. They will throw poop out of the cage, but as said it's dry (assuming the chin is healthy wet poop=sick chin), so it's easy to sweep or vacuum up. You can get or make poop guards, but they don't work 100% but they do help cut down on the amount that gets throw/kicked/pushed out. Depending on the cage it's also not uncommon to end up with pee splatter on the wall behind the cage if the chin isn't trained to pee in a box, but a fleece blanket to cover the wall works and is much easier to wash then the wall.

Another thing that doesn't seem to be mentioned yet is, make sure you find a vet that treats chinchillas before getting one, not all exotic vets know chinchillas. Also although chins don't require check ups or shots, when they do need to go to the vet it can get very expensive quickly, hundreds to thousands of dollars. So lack of vet visits doesn't mean cheaper pet, it's best to have money set aside for emergencies. I'm not saying this to scare you, it just I think I've read too many "my chins is sick/hurt what can I do at home? I don't have money for a vet" posts.

 

[imnoangell99]

Keep in mind that unless the furniture is untreated chin safe wood then it's going to most likely have poisonous stuff on it (paint, sealant, chemical treating, etc), so that can be a problem if the chin chews and swallows any of it.
I don't advise allowing the chin anywhere that you can't easily grab it, if it gets hurt or scared it's going to hide and trying to get an injured or scared chin out from under a bed is going to stress it out even more. Block off anywhere that it can get under anything, one thing I found useful is those critter playpens like these http://petus.imageg.net/PETNA_36/pimg/pPETNA-5200168_main_enh.jpg, you can block off areas and they are made of metal so no way to chew through it. A lot of people also buy playpens for their chins too, the ones made for ferrets work well, and most allow you to connect pens together to make a big pen. Some people also get those cloth dog pens that have a zipper lid, but they can chew out of them. A cheaper solution is using cardboard or even those tri fold project boards to make your own pen or use for blocking areas. Another thing to keep in mind though is chins can jump 4-5 feet, so when using a playpen you still need to keep constant eye on the chin.

As said chins can be potty trained, but just to pee, and not all take to it, and in some cases will decide they no longer feel like being pee trained (commonly a personality issue not a medical issue, like a cat not using it's box is). The way their gut works they need to poop every minute or so, so they can't hold it, there gut has to be always moving, which means the chin always has to poop (they go less when sleeping though). Pyrex dishes or metal pans work well, there are pros and cons for each, personally the idea of a glass dish scares me since they like to throw toys and if a toy hit the dish just right it could break. As said plastic is a big no no for chinchillas, they will chew it, and if swallowed can cause a blockage which requires surgery. They will throw poop out of the cage, but as said it's dry (assuming the chin is healthy wet poop=sick chin), so it's easy to sweep or vacuum up. You can get or make poop guards, but they don't work 100% but they do help cut down on the amount that gets throw/kicked/pushed out. Depending on the cage it's also not uncommon to end up with pee splatter on the wall behind the cage if the chin isn't trained to pee in a box, but a fleece blanket to cover the wall works and is much easier to wash then the wall.

Another thing that doesn't seem to be mentioned yet is, make sure you find a vet that treats chinchillas before getting one, not all exotic vets know chinchillas. Also although chins don't require check ups or shots, when they do need to go to the vet it can get very expensive quickly, hundreds to thousands of dollars. So lack of vet visits doesn't mean cheaper pet, it's best to have money set aside for emergencies. I'm not saying this to scare you, it just I think I've read too many "my chins is sick/hurt what can I do at home? I don't have money for a vet" posts.

I have read about not using plastic and know that pine wood is okay but much else may not be. From the previous posts I am starting to think a play pen would be a better idea. Carboard is okay to put together for a play pen? Instead of putting the cage against a wall, my room is big enough to just put in the middle of the room and carpet is easy to simply vacuum. I have read to find a vet first just in case and I am saving money now before getting a chinchilla, will buy the cage first and then slowly get the toys, accessories, food, etc, and then will buy the chinchilla last. Planning on getting the midwest ferret nation double unit since it seems to be the best one and want to make sure there is plenty of room without the regret of possibly wanting a bigger cage later. Hoping to find a sale for one under $200.

 

[Godofgods]

I have read about not using plastic and know that pine wood is okay but much else may not be. From the previous posts I am starting to think a play pen would be a better idea. Carboard is okay to put together for a play pen? Instead of putting the cage against a wall, my room is big enough to just put in the middle of the room and carpet is easy to simply vacuum. I have read to find a vet first just in case and I am saving money now before getting a chinchilla, will buy the cage first and then slowly get the toys, accessories, food, etc, and then will buy the chinchilla last. Planning on getting the midwest ferret nation double unit since it seems to be the best one and want to make sure there is plenty of room without the regret of possibly wanting a bigger cage later. Hoping to find a sale for one under $200.

Pine is only safe if its kiln-dried. That drying processes take a lot of the dangerous stuff out of the wood. Poplar is also common and safe.

Cardboard is only ok if your chins arnt eating it. If they are then it must be taken away.

Having a vet is always a good idea. You dont want to be in a position where you need a vet NOW and dont have one lined up. Id suggest starting by asking in the vet thread if anyone knows some good chin vets in your area. (Just because they say they treat chins doesnt make them a good vet.)

Fn are decent cages. If your going for one of them i personally recommend looking for a model 142. They dont make them any more (as far as i know) so you would have to look for a used one. (like on craigslist or something). It will probably be cheaper and as far as im concerned the 142 is superior to the current 182. The 182 has more plastic. Its also designed to be a 'no tools' version (in reality it requires more tools and is less sturdy imo).
I have two 142 and two 182. Both 182 arrived with many broken and warped parts. I dont really like it. Also since the 182 connects its pieces like a set of Lincoln logs, if its warped or bent even the slightest, then you are going to have a **** of a time getting it together; or possible you wont be able to.
142 is my personal recommendation for FN cages.
** also worth noting that FN cages have 1 inch bar spacing. Young/small kits can and will fit though that space. There are ways around it like hardware cloth on the inside until they are bigger. But its something to note.
Critter nation cages have 1/2 inch horizontal spacing. Good for kits. Tho once they are bigger you wont be able to put your fingers in through the cage and what not.

 

[imnoangell99]

Pine is only safe if its kiln-dried. That drying processes take a lot of the dangerous stuff out of the wood. Poplar is also common and safe.

Cardboard is only ok if your chins arnt eating it. If they are then it must be taken away.

Having a vet is always a good idea. You dont want to be in a position where you need a vet NOW and dont have one lined up. Id suggest starting by asking in the vet thread if anyone knows some good chin vets in your area. (Just because they say they treat chins doesnt make them a good vet.)

Fn are decent cages. If your going for one of them i personally recommend looking for a model 142. They dont make them any more (as far as i know) so you would have to look for a used one. (like on craigslist or something). It will probably be cheaper and as far as im concerned the 142 is superior to the current 182. The 182 has more plastic. Its also designed to be a 'no tools' version (in reality it requires more tools and is less sturdy imo).
I have two 142 and two 182. Both 182 arrived with many broken and warped parts. I dont really like it. Also since the 182 connects its pieces like a set of Lincoln logs, if its warped or bent even the slightest, then you are going to have a **** of a time getting it together; or possible you wont be able to.
142 is my personal recommendation for FN cages.
** also worth noting that FN cages have 1 inch bar spacing. Young/small kits can and will fit though that space. There are ways around it like hardware cloth on the inside until they are bigger. But its something to note.
Critter nation cages have 1/2 inch horizontal spacing. Good for kits. Tho once they are bigger you wont be able to put your fingers in through the cage and what not.

I have seen that the 142 was recommended over the 182. I will definitely look on craigslist and ebay then. I am planning on getting an adult chinchilla so bar spacing won't be a big issue.