Care sheet comments. Input appreciated.

[3CsMommy]

In another thread (in the Hedgies section actually) I talked briefly about a pet store near York, PA that has the only good chinchilla set up I've ever seen in a store. The store has recently revamped its website, so since we'll be visiting there soon (Taller Half's family lives in York Cty.) I poked around the site the other night to make a shopping list.

Then I tripped over the pet care sheets they have posted, and while the betta and rat/mouse ones are well in line with what I've read, done, and been told about keeping them, the chinchilla one is a little... misguided.

I intend to print a copy of this care sheet, annotate in the margins where they've missed something, and give it (+ a letter explaining myself) to a manager while I'm in the store Friday. But, I'm only one owner, and not a very experienced one at that, so I turn to you, Chins n' Hedgers...

Here's the link to the care sheet:
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/dis...../Article_archive/Small_Pet/Chinchillas.html

What do you (who care to respond) think I should mention/correct? I'm already going to talk about the bad idea carpeting on cage shelves is, and point out that all the foods and wheels they link to in the article are, while perhaps not lethal, certainly not the best, or even very healthy/safe. I'd also like to give them the business contact for the manufacturers of the Chin Spin or Flying Saucer, since distributorships are available.

If anyone responding to this would be all right with me using the name of your ranch/animal care business/rescue in my comments, please let me know. I think being able to say "Shirley Showers, a 25 year breeder of champion chinchillas, swears by Manna Pro alfalfa pellets, but Frank Flowers, who has bred champions for 20 years, likes Tradition pellets" would mean more to a businessperson/pet owner than general terms like "breeders" or "owners". Basically, I'm trying not to sound reactionary, paranoid or like I'm out to get them (which I'm not), but well-researched and concerned about the often-misunderstood animals they've been selling. I think if we want pet stores in general to be better to their (and our) animals, we should be willing to try to help them get that way, and I hate to see any creature overlooked or given the short end of the stick.

Thanks in advance,

Becky

 

[MyFuzzies]

I agree with suggesting a few changes, for example, the "carpeted" cage shelving, the recommendations of plastic this and that. I'd also suggest to be more specific with the temperature levels...as in "thier environent shouldn't get any warmer than 65-70 degrees". Maybe you could print out some information about the higher quality pellets (maybe the ingredients/nutrition info) and give to them.

I wouldn't go in with a demanding attitude (as it doesn't sound like you will). I've found that people respond better to answering questions than taking demands. You could say something along the lines of "I think the information you provide about the typical care of chinchillas is a great thing to do especially for new owners, however since I've owned my chinchillas I've learned a few things that I was misinformed about and thought I might mention it to you". I'm sure, or I'd hope, as a pet store owner that they will be more concerned about the proper care of the pet than whether they are right or wrong. I can't offer a "professional" comment that you could quote me on as I am only a pet owner and not a breeder, but I suppose the pet store would sell more chins to the general public than to breeders. Also, maybe you could suggest reading the forum...you never know.

Anyway, good luck with this and definitely let us know how things go.

 

[greychins]

I'd talk about how, rather than plastic, the levels of the cage should be made with chewable/safe woods. And then list some of the more common chewable safe woods (pine, aspen, uh..others...).

Also, I'd add that people can use pine or aspen bedding, or even pine/aspen pelleted bedding, as this really won't harm their feet unless the chin is on wet, dirty bedding for long periods of time (which wouldn't happen if the cage is cleaned regularly).

I'd take out the "overfeeding" part. Chins don't overeat, and you wouldnt want an owner to only give 2 Tbsp because "that's what the caresheet says" and then have the chin be starving (if it's a chin that would eat considerably more than 2 Tbsp). I'd change it to something like "feed as much as your chin will eat within a day, with only a little bit left at night," or something to that effect.

Fix the treats section no. NO raisins, unsalted peanuts, dried or fresh fruits or veggies. I've heard sunflower seeds could be ok, in small quantities, but I'd take that out too, for fear of the owner that gives a handful a day.

I'd also mention about which wheels are good, as you mentioned above, so people don't go buy those crap ones that are in the pet stores...

Lastly, I'd take out the part about regular vet visits. No need to stress the chin if there's no sign of problems...

 

[Cuddlebug]

I agree with the others that have posted. If you would like to use my name/business and website, feel free to. The link is in my signature.

 

[alpayton]

You know how they say "you catch more flies with honey?" Well...I haven't read their flier but I wanted to suggest that you may want to find some good points about their flier to point out so that you could praise their efforts while correcting the bad points. This way the whole thing isn't a negative thing. Just a thought...

 

[3CsMommy]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Here's what I've changed in the article itself:
~*~
[...]
Chinchillas do not tolerate warm temperatures and should kept in a cooler area in the home, no higher than 70* F with 30% humidity. Combination thermometer/hygrometer units are available, and can be hung near the cage to monitor conditions in the area. (The ones used for reptile habitats seem to work well.) During the summer months they will need to be in an air conditioned room or home to prevent heat stroke. Marble tiles can also be placed on the bottom of the cage to let the chinchilla cool off by resting on a cold surface. These tiles can be put in the refrigerator first if conditions inside the home are uncomfortably warm.

A large wire cage with at least two levels is recommended to house one chinchilla. The levels should be solid plastic or carpeted so that they’re their feet do not get sore or go through the wires.

(Carpeting is easily chewed, causing strings that can lead to choking and gut impaction hazards, as well as tangling and hanging hazards… two of the same reasons this sheet speaks *against* wire mesh shelves. Carpeted shelves would also be difficult to clean, and expensive to replace when ruined by urine marking or spraying behaviors. Solid plastic is also very easy for a chinchilla to destroy, expensive to replace, and poses a gut impaction risk. Most of the breeders and showers that I have contact with use kiln dried pine boards for shelving, which are safe since high temperatures destroy the aromatic oils linked to URIs, inexpensive, easy to replace, and offer the chinchilla a constant, safe chewing surface.)

Only use a chinchilla cage that has a flat bottom instead of a wire bottomed cage. Kiln dried pine shavings, aspen wood shavings, Carefresh or Yesterday’s News bedding is required for Chinchillas. Do not use ceder cedar or aromatic pine shavings, as it they can be irritating to your pet. Bedding should be replaced at least once every week and spot cleaned daily.

Chinchillas like to have a dark and secure place to hide and sleep in, so at least one hide box should be provided per chinchilla. Plastic igloos or timber hide-a-ways are great hide spots. (Most of the breeders and pet owners I’m in contact with do not recommend plastic in chinchilla cages at all, since most plastic furnishings are easily destroyed, expensive to replace, and can pose a gut impaction risk to the chinchilla if pieces are swallowed.) All animals should be provided with a hide area so they have a place to feel safe and secure.


A chinchillas diet should consist of commercial pellet food and timothy hay. Commercial pellet food is a blend of wheat germ, alfalfa, oats, molasses, soybean and corn.

(The suggested nutrient levels of a good quality pellet are generally accepted by chinchilla breeders and their vets as follows: Crude Protein Minimum- 16%, Maximum 18%; Crude Fat Minimum- 3.5%; Crude Fiber Minimum- 18%, Maximum 23%. Also, the pellet food should *not* contain particles other than pellets. Bits of grain, dried fruits and cereals should be considered treats, not part of a healthy diet. None of the pellets offered by your store, and linked to in this article, meet these requirements. Most contain ‘junk’ foods like whole corn kernels and dried fruit treats mixed in. An excellent brand of chinchilla specific pellet, Mazuri, is available to retail stores in 2.5 pound bags. Other healthy premium brands of chinchilla or rabbit pellets include Oxbow, Purina Advanced Nutrition Rabbit pellets, and Manna Pro Show Rabbit.)

At least two tablespoons of chinchilla food is recommended per animal. It is important not to over feed your chinchilla, so give only slightly more pellets than the animals will eat in 24 hours, to keep their food fresh. Unlimited Timothy hay should be offered daily to your chinchilla in a hay manger. Chinchillas should always have hay available to them as it is high in fiber and helps to keep the chinchilla’s digestive system functioning properly, as well as wearing down back teeth.

You do not have to worry about overfeeding with hay. (Since good quality pellets are made of hay and contain little or no added sugars, overfeeding with good pellets is rarely a concern either. Unnecessary and sugary treats like raisins and yogurt drops are more frequently linked to obesity in chinchillas than free-feeding of quality pellets and hay, and some chinchillas would go hungry on only 2 Tbsp. of pellets/day.)

Treats should be given in moderation, only in small amounts, three to four times a week. Appropriate treats are single puffed oat cereal pieces (Cheerios), half of a mini shredded wheat square, rose hips, and old fashioned (not quick cooking) rolled oats. {commercial chinchilla treats, raisins, unsalted peanuts, dried or fresh fruit or vegetable and sunflower seeds.} (The treats originally listed all contain high levels of fat or sugar, which is linked to obesity in chinchillas, as well as the potential for kidney failure. None of these should be fed to a chinchilla regularly, if at all.) If you notice any loose stools, stop feeding treats and provide fresh hay and water. Too many treats, or fresh or dried fruits or vegetables may cause diarrhea which can cause dehydration.

Chew toys should be available to them at all times. Chinchillas have teeth that continually grow, so they should be provided with chew sticks to keep their teeth trimmed and healthy. Prepared apple and pear wood, grape vine, manzanita, dogwood, aspen and kiln dried pine wood branches provide a dual purpose chewing toy and perch inside a chinchilla cage. Like birds, having varied surfaces to stand on helps keep chinchillas’ nails groomed, and provides rest for their feet, which can crack from the pressure of standing the same way at all times. Lava blocks are excellent for keeping teeth trimmed and providing a treat. Fresh water should be provided daily and water bottles should be cleaned everyday to prevent bacteria growth. Chinchillas drink very small amounts of water. Please be consistent with your pet’s diet, changing food can cause stress and diarrhea. (Excellent, excellent point.)
~*~

Now, a question. Does anyone have the contact information of the female vet in the greater York/Lancaster, PA area that came so highly recommended on the Chins n' Quills forum? IIrc, she owned chins of her own and had several years of practice under her belt too. I'd like to provide the store with her information, so that they can pass her name on to their customers, as well as ask for her assistance with the store's chins, should they need it.

I'm also printing out the info sheets on the Chin Spin, Flying Saucer, and for Mazuri, Oxbow, PANR and Manna Pro Show pellets to be included with the letter.

 

[3CsMommy]

Yep, some of that's in there too, as well as product suggestions for things that they might *not* associate with chinchillas, but already stock, like their wall-mounted thermometer/hygrometer combo units from the reptiles section. I also plan to talk to the manager about how much I love the place and how great it is to see a large store care about the animals when we get there, dogs in tow and full cart behind us. :thumbsup:

Thanks for thinking of it.

You know how they say "you catch more flies with honey?" Well...I haven't read their flier but I wanted to suggest that you may want to find some good points about their flier to point out so that you could praise their efforts while correcting the bad points. This way the whole thing isn't a negative thing. Just a thought...

 

[3CsMommy]

Well, I dropped the care sheet and info off at the pet store... after I discovered that they've put a plastic igloo and litter pan in each chinchilla cage, and put wire ramps back in. They weren't there when we last visited; the place seems like it's going backwards.

But, when I spoke to a supervisor, even though I was as complimentary as I thought wise, he still seemed to take offense to the idea that there could be improvements made. Pointing out that the chinchilla they just lost was 15 years old was apparently supposed to be a trump card to put my mind at ease. I asked him to have his manager look over the information and use his/her best judgment about it since that's all I could do, and I thanked him for helping run a good pet store.

Hopefully, it'll be worth the effort. Thanks for your own.