Top opening, or side opening carrier??

I am constructing a wire transport cage for one chinchilla. 14 gauge 1/2” x 1” top quality rabbit wire. I have cut out all of the panels, but have not started using the J-clips. I cut a piece for a TOP opening door (has “lip”/overhang), but should I make a side-opening door instead? The cage is small, 8” tall x 7” wide x 11” long (has a wire bottom, but will fit inside a small baking sheet pan). Top opening is easier to construct because to the small sides n’ ends. More room to get hand in/critter out. Can still modify the way the cage opens. Help?

Most carriers I've seen are top opening, so that is likely the best way to do it. The size does sound a bit small though. Here is an example of a common/popular carrier in that wire style. https://qualitycage.com/collections/chinchilla-supplies/products/chinchilla-carrier it's 8" x 8" x 12"

Thanks for the comments. I saw the cages at Quality Cages, but they are doggone pricey. Look very nice though.
My cage isn’t far off, dimension-wise, and is a smidgeon larger, than the “show transport cages” from KW Cages (good rabbit supplier in years past). The multiple-unit cages break down into 6” W x 9” H x 9” (?) “long/deep per “hole”. If the chin became terrified, freak out, wouldn’t a (temporary) tight cage be safer? Can’t smash willy-nilly into any “bars” with much force? Less likely to cause injury? Again, I dunno.
I do have all the materials on hand to build this cage with, from left-over rabbit/bird supplies, so economics also entered into the equation.

I didn't actually mean buying one of the carriers (honestly I do not actually recommended that company anymore and forgot about KW Cages) I was just giving a size example of one I could remember off hand. You don't want to squish the chin too much, they should be able to stand up, turn around, and lay down if they want to.

I just measured the carrier I have is roughly 12" L x 8"W x 9"H so I guess the one you make should be ok so long as you get a smaller chin. Here is a pic with my chinchilla (he is about 650g which is average size for a "pet chin", show chins are often bigger) in the carrier to give you an idea of what that size looks like with a chin in it.


(he is currently shedding which is why he looks so scruffy)

Oh WOW! Many thanks for the pic, complete with cute “occupant”. If I get a youngster I should be OK. But mine will be pretty narrow? I can build a larger cage in the future as I have many feet of wire. The hard part is cutting the heavy wire (have a Erwin compound-action side-cutter though).
I was going to line the bottom with fleece to make it a little nicer for the feet. Or should I place the cage over a pan of shavings? (Hence why I sized the cage to fit sheet pan).
Is “the occupant” likely to spring “straight up”, if the cage opens from the top? A side door looks like it would be hard to extract the chin? I started clipping the cage, but have not attached the top. Could still cut a door in one of the sides. Thanks for your help!

The narrowness is likely ok, I wouldn't go any narrower then 6". Yes the chin can jump straight up, but depending on the temperament most are going to instinctively duck down at first when the top opens since they are prey animals so something coming from above can mean danger. They are probably more likely to bolt forward and out with a side open, at least with the top open design you can be over top if they do jump up. For example I know some people use cat carriers for their chins, which are mostly front door not top door, and tip the carrier up to open it. It's up to you though, but I figure that the top opening probably works best since that is the most common I see people use for show transport cages.

I would go with fleece on the floor, so long as your chin doesn't chew it (most don't but some do), shavings could get messy if the chin kicks them around.

Thanks again, for your further wisdom. Your information has been very helpful. I went ahead and constructed my cage, but have to buy a handle(s?), and maybe will splurge for the vinyl “rabbit cage edge guard” for the top, even though I did round off the exposed wire ends with a metal file. I was stumped for the hinges, as I don’t have hog rings, or the specialized pliers. Used heavy/strong stainless steel “oval” jump rings that I have on hand for making some bracelets. VERY hard to open/close.

I should have typed that I plan to use snaps for the front and side panels.

The plastic or vinyl cage edge guards are not the best, chins can easily chew right through them, go with the metal ones if you can. The cages I had in the past were wire mesh cages with vinyl/plastic guards on the edges, I ended up having to remove them all to prevent the chins from ingesting it (which can damage their gut or cause a blockage). To be fair they were in the cages the chins lived in, not travel cages, so it gave them more time to sit and chew on them. It really depends on the chin though, the vinyl guards may be fine on a carrier, a lot of people are able to get away with even plastic carriers (like I have or the hard plastic cat carriers) without issue because the chin isn't that interested in chewing plastic or escaping and they aren't in the carrier that long.

Thanks for the comments on the vinyl edge guards. To reduce any risks of chewing, I will try adding some stripping to the very outside edge of the top (the part that folds over outside wall) making it difficult to chew from the inside of the cage. Klubertanz said they would custom build me two 2.5” deep galvanized pans to clip on my home built cage(s) for only twenty bucks per cage, shipping included. As all of my materials are “old/upsycle materials/components, the custom pans should be a great add-on.

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